It was my first night in Panama City and I was tired after my flight from Ecuador earlier in the day. It was hot and humid outside, too, meaning that I easily could have stayed in my air-conditioned room and not gone out.
Wine Run
But my friend Michelle and I wanted some more wine (we’d done a bottle of champagne earlier) and snacks. Also, we were in one of the most interesting sections of Panama City–Casco Viejo–so it made no sense to stay in.
With no plan in mind, we began to wander around. We bypassed the clubs and the upscale bars, which seem to be springing up everywhere, and headed for the local “Chino,” a Chinese-owned convenience store.
Following the Music
And despite the sauna-like heat, we quickly discovered something rather cool–the vibrancy of the neighborhood itself. We heard music. Salsa. And it was the kind that makes you want to dance wherever you are. I had a feeling it wasn’t coming from a club.
We followed it and heard voices and laughter and soon saw…a family hanging out on the street. It looked like a party. There was food, liquor and a boom box, playing Latin music. Songs I knew from salsa clubs back home.
“Hola,” I said to the familiy, smiling. And the group of 12 or so people smiled back. “Uds. van a bailar esta noche?” Hi, are you going to dance tonight?
“Si, claro!” Yes, of course, they said.
They looked friendly and I wanted to hang out, but they hadn’t officially invited us. I wasn’t sure. Neither was Michelle. Perhaps on our way back, I thought. If they invite us.
And sure enough, when we passed by later, they were still there. And the music was even better.
This time, they gestured to us to join them. So we stopped. And stayed.
Meeting the Family, Seeing Their Home
And we were soon part of the family and the party. I danced with several men in the group (salsa and merengue) and had conversations with the women; I found everyone to be warm and friendly. And then one of them, one whose smile was the brightest of all, invited me and Michelle into their home.
Her name: Yadira.
“Come in….let me show you around,” she said in Spanish. She lived on the other side of town, but this was her extended family’s house–the one she had once lived in, I believe.
She led us into what appeared to be a long alley-like hallway, with rooms on either side. Each room had an adjoining room upstairs, which was used for sleeping or as an extra closet.
We entered nearly every room, but not the upstairs, and chatted with her about life–hers mostly and ours to some extent. She was thrilled to meet us and vice versa. It became obvious rather quickly that she was a happy person. I’ve seen many smiles over the years, but never one quite like hers.
“You look so happy,” I said to her.
“I am happy,” she replied. “I have my husband and son and my family. I have everything I need.” She smiled and looked at her extended family with love in her eyes.
Part of the Family
And for a moment, I was part of it. And so was Michelle.
We walked back outside and danced for a while and then family members grabbed their phones and cameras and started taking photos of us. We did the same, of course.
And then Yadira gestured to us to join her off to the side of the street.
“I want to give you something,” she said. In my mind, she already had. She’d opened her heart to us. And her home. She’d welcomed us into the family.
A Gift
But she wanted to give more. Something that would remind us of her, or her country, in the future perhaps.
She took off her necklace and gave it to Michelle. And then gave her bracelet to me. She helped us put them on, too.
“Are you sure?” I asked, knowing that I would, of course, accept the gift.
“Please,” she said. “Take it.” And I did. I put on the bracelet. Michelle put on the necklace and then we resumed dancing. And she smiled. And we smiled back. Perhaps that was our gift to her? Our enjoyment of her family and her gifts?
It got late and we got tired and got ready to leave. Before we said our goodbyes, we had our second photo shoot. Perhaps just as I’m showing you their photos, they showed ours to people they know.
More important than photos, of course, is that we got to share the real moment with them. And for that, I am grateful.
When I look at my bracelet, I’ll always remember that night. And Yadira, the woman who gave it to me. And of course, the unique neighborhood of Casco Viejo and Panama itself.
Your Thoughts/Experiences?
Have you ever been in this type of situation where you connected with a local family? Did they invite you into their home? What sort of cultural experience did you have with them? What country were you in?
Perhaps you’ve been to Panama. Did you get to visit or stay in Casco Viejo? Did you meet the locals while there? What did you think of the very unique neighborhood?
Yadira’s son–one of the many reasons for that smile on her face!