Atayak, Bedouin Guide and Camel Racer
I was in Jordan—one of several Middle Eastern countries I visited this past summer—traveling on my own and loving it, but facing a few challenges due to the fact that it was the end of high season. While it’s nice to visit places that aren’t overrun with tourists, the down side is that you’re not always able to jump in on other travelers’ tours or to share transportation costs. There just aren’t that many options.
But as luck would have it, things just sort of fell into place—as they often do when I’m traveling. I was on the verge of committing to an expensive couple of days (I was going to experience Wadi Rum no matter what) when something wonderful happened…
One of the Bedouin guides I’d been talking to, a man named Atayak, decided to invite me as his guest.
“I’m finished working for the season and I’m now officially on vacation. I just need to get back out into the desert and find my camels that I left there. Want to join me?” he asked. I would only need to pay for food, he said. He’s a camel racer, by the way.
“Really? Are you sure?” I didn’t know what to make of it.
“Yes, I’m sure,” he said. “You sound like you really want to meet us and be here….I think you’re open to it. And we like to have guests,” he said. He mentioned that he’d traveled a bit—low budget—and had been the guest of others, so he understood my situation.
“So…what do you think?” I could see that he wanted an immediate answer.
“Of course,” I said—as if it’s something I did every day. “I’d love to.”
Magical moments…and trippy tea
Twenty-four hours later, I was in the magical desert known as Wadi Rum, spending time with my new friend’s family and meeting the locals in what is known as Wadi Rum Village—a small town on the outskirts of the desert itself.
The way things worked out, my friend ended up searching for the camels on his own, but we did make it out to the desert a couple times….we walked, sat in the shade, chatted about Bedouin culture and of course, shared that magical tea that they make—with loose tea and and old tin pot—over a fire. There’s something about it–the desert and the tea—that makes you feel giddy and sort of high. You might wonder what they put in it, but…I promise you that it’s just black tea, sage, sugar and maybe some rosebuds.
Hours later, I was in the family’s home in the village, meeting everyone, including the children and everyone else…brothers, sisters, cousins. The extended family extends pretty far, and I found that I was part of it. My time with them—and other villagers—is something I will never forget. I truly felt like a guest and will always be grateful for it.
Wadi Rum Travel Tips
Aside from drinking tea and hanging out, there were many amazing things I did while there—each of which I recommend to you:
1. Sleep in the desert
. The tents and camps are quite nice and well-equipped, but…nothing beats sleeping out there, in the desert. I slept on a small mat, on the sand, out in the open. I’ve seen the sky, clear of smog and other obstructions, in some beautiful places and must say that this setting was perhaps the ultimate.
2. Don’t worry…be happy.
Worried about insects? Generally not a problem. Your Bedouin guide knows where to sleep and what to avoid. Generally, they stay away from the scrubby areas with vegetation, etc. and opt for the smooth sand and dunes.
Afraid of the dark? Not to worry…the starry sky, whether it’s moonlit or not, will provide you with just enough light. Still, you should pack a flashlight. It’s dark enough that you will need one.
3. Be open to meeting the locals
If you walk around Wadi Rum Village, you will definitely meet people. They’ll be curious about you, especially if it’s off-season. They’ll invite you in for tea and offer to take you out to the desert. If it’s high season, then you’re paying for a tour. But off-season, you might be their guest as I was.
Whatever the case, their hospitality can’t be beat. One evening, as I was heading out to the desert to catch the sunset, a local man and his sun offered to drive me out to a better spot. They wanted me to have the best view possible. I took them up on their offer, of course.
4. Get involved with the culture.
While tea is nice, moving beyond it is something I recommend. I suggest spending some real time getting to know the people and participating in their daily lives. Help them with their chores. Chop some veggies if they’re cooking you a meal. Gather some kindling for a fire. Check out a camel race. Most importantly, ask them about their culture, customs, beliefs, etc. They love to explain it to you.
Many choose to live in tents, and others live in houses, in Wadi Rum Village. Most, especially the men, prefer to sleep out in the desert…right on the ground. The reasons? They find an actual shelter too claustrophobic. Once I slept outside, I felt this way, too. If you really get to know the Bedouin, you’ll discover so many things—about them and yourself. Perhaps, as a traveler or seeker, you can relate to the nomadic lifestyle?
5. Take some time alone
As nice as it is to immerse yourself in the Bedouin culture, it can be intense at times. Also, if you’re on this sort of trip, chances are—you’re probably looking to have some quiet time and a chance to reflect. This is definitely a great place for it. The beauty of the desert lends itself to this. I do recommend, however, using a compass, hiking GPS or, at the very least, be sure you look for landmarks (maybe photograph them) to ensure that you can find your way back.
Beyond words
Being with the Bedouin–experiencing their beauty—is something I will never forget. And in many ways, what I saw and felt is beyond words.
How does one describe… …a sky full of stars that is so beautiful that you can’t sleep when under its spell? …a tribe of people so warm and welcoming that you become part of the family?
…a desert of silky sand, whispering wind, surreal sunsets and nocturnal mystery?
It’s hard to….so check out this photo album I created in an attempt to bring you along for this unforgettable journey.
Tips for Planning a Trip to Jordan (on the Journeywoman website)
Ruth’s Jordan Jubilee (not sure how up-to-date it is, but….the information is great; I returned to the site many times)
Wadi Rum Mountain Guides (this is Atayak’s company; as you can see, it’s extremely professional. He is one of the best in the area)