In a matter of minutes, I went from having a large/lovely beach pretty much to myself to having lunch with a leftover hippy/beach squatter/Rasta wannabe and then, briefly, being part of a quirky party he was having under his private lean-to.
How the heck did this happen?
Well, Random Travel Moment #2 was no different than other quirky “rides”on the Chicky Bus. I was there, the beach squatter and his temporary buddies (locals, travelers and surfers) were there and something–that mysterious random in-the-moment travel mojo that happens off the beaten path–brought us together.
Here’s the story.
Where: El Toro Beach, Pedasí, Panama
Pedasí is a small town of locals and retiree ex-pats that’s a bit off the beaten path in Azuero Province in Panama. Its local beach (Pacific Coast side), Playa Del Toro, is about 10 minutes away. I was there a few months ago and was lucky it was a weekday; the beach was nearly empty–except for a few people swimming or walking and a group of about 8 people under a lean-to enjoying food, drinks and shade.
I couldn’t figure out if they were living there or just partying for the day. I must admit that I was mildly curious. I kept walking, though.
Truth be told, I liked what I saw in the other direction. No people at all.
When: Midday–When It Was Super Hot
But after a couple of hours, the heat began to get to me. My hat helped, but not much. I had water and a little food, but I was running out. I really needed to get supplies and find myself some shade–or leave the beach.
While contemplating my next move (call for a taxi? head back to town?), I walked back to where I’d entered the beach. Along the way, I met a Panamanian family and sat with them in a small pool of water that felt almost as good as a cenote might.
How: I Was Introduced by Someone’s Mom
I had a nice chat with the Mom, in English and Spanish and then, after a while, we got up to leave. “Come meet Arturo,” the mom said. “You can get water and sit in the shade.” She was pointing right at the lean-to I’d spotted earlier. “He’s a great guy…I’ve known him for years.”
Minutes later, I was shaking hands and speaking Spanish with “Arturo Cabeza” (his last name means “head), and saw what the scene was about. He welcomed me like an old friend he hadn’t seen for years. And I felt I’d joined a beach commune of sorts. And it was nice. For a while, anyway.
Who: Arturo ‘Cabeza’–a Bob Marley Shirt-Wearing, Midday Partying Hippy Dude
Arturo claimed that he owned the strip of land you see in the photos. Other folks back in town told me otherwise (they said he was a squatter). He sleeps in a tent (and sometimes a hammock), cooks food and offers it to anyone who might be passing by and runs in to town for beer, etc. He gets potable water from a nearby spring.
His ‘living space’ is rather unique. Various odds and ends, an old bike, photos of his granddaughters (who are beauty queens) and other random stuff. I felt like I was at a Salvation Army store –or maybe a bizarre garage sale–that happened to be on a beach.
What: He Offered Food, Beer and a Free Place to Stay
I was famished, so when he offered me some chicken he’d just grilled and fried sweet plantains, I couldn’t resist. It was good, too. I also accepted a cold beer from him. He then offered me chicken soup that was cold and looked a bit “off” (for lack of a better word). I declined. I offered to pay him for what I’d had, but he said no. “Just bring something to contribute if you come back tomorrow.”
Why: Arturo Is Generous/Likes to Have Company
Arturo is a hippy of sorts and has made it his goal in life to “share” with others–everything from water to food to accommodations. He loves Bob Marley and various aspects of the Rastafarian lifestyle. Not to judge a book by its cover (well, I saw the Table of Contents, too) I think he’s a wannabe Rasta.
What It Was Like: Enjoyable for a While, But…
It was lovely being out of the sun, relaxing and reading. It was great hydrating, too. And Arturo was friendly and quite attentive to me and the others. At times, though, his behavior seemed a bit”off,” just as the soup had been. He reminded me of an over-eager waiter or a shoe salesman who worked on commission.
Eventually, as he did with the others, he offered me the option of sleeping there under the lean-to–in a tent or on a hammock. (Note: the Panamanian Mom who’d introduced us earlier had left by then.) I said “no.”
Why? Well, mostly, I wasn’t in the mood for an all-night party (which I knew it would be based on the beer, the changing dynamic, etc.).
I loved the room I was staying in back in town (and looked forward to quiet and sleep). Also, there were issues of safety, etc. I didn’t know Arturo from Adam, after all. And there was the high likelihood of sand flies and/or red crabs visiting me during REM sleep. According to an Australian couple I met who been staying there for a week (they were on a super low-budget trip) both were an issue. When I saw the bites on her legs, I believed her.
After a couple hours of hanging out under the lean-to and chatting with locals and other travelers, I saw that the sun was about to set and sensed that the scene was going to transition into party mode…fast. felt the sudden urge to escape. I wanted to be alone again.
I thanked Arturo and walked away and then, randomly, ran into a couple who staying at my hostal who’d actually dropped me off in the morning. We went to a nearby bar with a pool and enjoyed the sunset in peace.
The random moment with Arturo Cabeza–or the series of moments, rather–had come to an end.
Your thoughts/experiences?
Sunbathing Preferences
Do you prefer to stay at your hotel/hostal/hostel and relax under an umbrella with other people around–or do you like to find beaches that you can have all to yourself? Are you willing to pay more for this–as long as it’s clean/classy, etc–or risk it on a beach that’s almost too empty?
Alone or With People
If you were hot and thirsty on a beach and stumbled on to a group of people hanging under a lean-to, would you approach them or wait until you were invited? Or would you try to avoid them and just be alone? In this case, would you have done what I did? Or would you have gone back to town?
Partying at Night
Or…would you have stayed for the evening party? Why/why not?
Sleeping on the Beach for Free–or Back at Your Room for $$$
Last question….if you were on a super tight budget, would you have taken Arturo up on his offer and slept on the beach? Despite the obvious annoyances (sand flies and crabs), he did promise that it would be “tranquilo” (calm/relaxing). Would that plus being free be enough to entice you? 
Like Random Travel Moments? Can’t get enough?
Here’s Random Travel Moment #1: ‘Getting Scarfed’ in Sanliurfa, Turkey